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Mt
Kenya Technical climb Normal Routes, Standard IV: South
West Ridge, Standard V (Rock routes)
A true 8 day mountain route that
includes the tricky traverse of the Gates of Mist which
joins the two peaks of Nelion and Batian
Mount
Kenya - Standard Route to Batian
Itinerary
Day 00: Arrival and airport shuttle transfer to Parkside
Hotel/Comfort inn Hotel
Day 1: Depart from Nairobi at 08:00 and drive approximately
four hours to Nanyuki. Arriving at approximately midday
you proceed to the Sirimon gate at Mt Kenya National Park
where you’ll enjoy a picnic lunch. Taking some time to check
your gear after lunch you start out on the trek. The day’s
hike takes you up the track for 10kms, forking left at the
junction you reach Old Moses camp which is situated at 3,300m.
The ascent from Sirimon gate up to Old Moses camp is 690m.
Day 2: After breakfast
depart from Old Moses Camp, following the track over the
ridge and down into the Mackinders Valley. From there you
follow the trail up to Shipton camp where you’ll stay overnight.
Altitude is 4,250m.
Day 4: Today’s trail
takes you up the ascent to Simba Col. It is a steep ridge
via Simba Tarn which takes approximately an hour to climb.
Approaching Delamere Peaks you then hike down to Austrian
hut at 4790m which will serve as your base camp for the
technical climb up to Batian.
Day 5: Waking up
at 04:00 you have tea and biscuits before setting out. The
trail takes you across the Lewis glacier and up to the base
of the climbing section. The hike to this point takes approximately
two 2 hours. From the base, the first section of the climb
is relatively easy with the first three pitches being scrambles
using a running belay.
This takes you up to Mackinders
Chimney where the route starts to get more technical. As
an alternative you can choose the slightly easier route
via the rabbit hole. Both pitches are grade IV. From there
you come to the 1 o'clock gully and then to another four
easy pitches bring you to the Bailles Bivy.
Day 6: Another early
day, the route starts out on the Mackinders Gendarme. This
pitch will lead you to the De Graph Variation which is the
most difficult part of the climb graded as a IV +. Whilst
there are few good holds the rock is quite rough which helps
you move a little easier. This is followed by an easy grade
III section which leads onto a short but tricky 20m traverse.
With that behind you, you
have just two easy pitches which take you up to Nelion,
Mt Kenya’s second highest peak. To cross to Batian you scramble
for 50 meters to an anchor where you fix a rope to cross
the Gate of Mist. You then climb two short pitches of 25
meters which takes you to the summit of Batian at an altitude
of 5,199m. Once there, you abseil back down off the peak.
Once off the technical section you walk down to Shipton
camp.
Day 7: After breakfast
set out for the day’s trek. The path takes you up Simba
col and then down through the Georges Valley to the Meru
Mount Kenya Bandas above Chogoria. The hike takes approximately
seven hours.
Day 8: The last day’s
hike takes you down through the bamboo and indigenous forest
to reach Bairunyi. There you meet up with your transport
which will take you back to Nairobi.
Rate of 1750US$ per person
The
Guide:
Our local guide has the knowledge and experience of the
climbing routes on Nelion & Balian peaks also with verbal
information and local knowledge.Your Techinical Guide
1.Undergone Through ( NOLS) Famous American Outdoor School
2.Diploma in Outdoor Activities Leadership ,Map Leading
& Navigation
3.Working With Mt Kenya rescue Team (Can lead cliff Rescue)
4.Have Been satisfied by OSLO ,RED CROSS in First Aid &
CPR
5.Have climbed the Summit of Mt Kenya more than 30 times(5199
pt lenana)
6.Experince in 12 years
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